How to Start Your Locks: The Complete Guide to Getting Started

Starting your Locks is a decision that often causes hesitation. You ask yourself a thousand questions: which method, what length, will it suit me, will I succeed. That's normal. A beautiful head of Locks always begins with good preparation, not perfection. In this guide, I share everything you need to know to start calmly, without jargon and without pressure.

Before you start: what to really expect

Before talking technique, you need to understand one essential thing: Locks are alive. They evolve, they change texture, they thicken over time. What you see on the first day has nothing to do with what you will have in six months, then in two years.

The first weeks are often the most confusing. Newly started Locks can seem thin, a bit messy, not yet "closed." It's a stage, not a result. Patience is part of the journey.

Starting your Locks is not about getting a perfect result immediately, it's about accepting to let a living material take its shape.

If you keep this in mind from the start, you save yourself a lot of frustration. Most dropouts happen within the first three months, out of impatience, not failure.

What hair length to start Locks?

This is one of the first questions everyone asks. The answer depends on the chosen method, but there are simple guidelines.

The curlier the hair, the less length is needed for the sections to start consolidating. On very curly hair, a few centimeters are enough. On straight or wavy hair, more length is needed, and especially the right technique. In any case, there is no need to wait for long hair: you can start on any hair type with the right approach.

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On wet or dry hair?

This is a specific question many ask and rarely find a clear answer to.

The answer depends on the technique. Crochet is done on dry hair for better control and hold. Twists and Comb Coils are done on slightly damp hair, which facilitates handling and section adhesion. What never changes: you never start on soaking wet hair. Excess water prevents the material from holding, weakens the work, and prolongs drying problematically.

Starting with hair too wet is one of the most common mistakes: the hold is poor, drying is endless, and the result disappointing from the first week.

Methods to start your Locks

There is no universal technique for a good start to Locks. The choice always depends on three factors: hair type, texture, and final goal. Here are the five main methods, presented honestly.

Comb Coils

The most natural technique. You wrap the hair around a tail comb to give it the most cylindrical shape possible, which foreshadows the future Lock.

Advantage: very natural look, no special tool needed.
Attention point: easily undone at first, especially on fine or less curly hair. Requires a lot of discipline in the first weeks.
For whom: very curly hair type 4A, 4B, 4C, which consolidates quickly.

Two-strand twists (vanillas)

You divide each section into two and twist the two strands together. The result is more textured and voluminous than a Comb Coil.

Advantage: adds texture and volume from the start, natural look.
Attention point: Locks will take longer to form and the initial result is less uniform.
For whom: curly to semi-curly hair, ideal for those who want a natural result with volume.

Crochet Interlock (Crochet Latching)

You pass the crochet through the base of the Lock to consolidate the roots. It is both a maintenance and starting technique.

Advantage: very good root hold, particularly suitable for active people (sports, swimming).
Attention point: can lack uniformity if poorly done, and weaken roots if too tight.
For whom: fine hair needing consolidated roots, or very active people.

Crochet Embroidery (Instant Locs)

The preferred technique for professional starts. A crochet embroidery hook is used to integrate and consolidate the hair from day one. The Lock is formed immediately, with no waiting period.

Advantage: clean, fast, durable. Visible result and hold from the start.
Attention point: long and very technical process. Not for amateurs.
For whom: all hair types, but especially essential for straight and wavy textures (types 1, 2, 3A/3B). It is the only technique that holds on these textures.

Freeform

You let the Locks form naturally, without imposed technique, simply separating the sections as they go. You let the hair express itself.

Advantage: the most natural and least restrictive method.
Attention point: the least predictable result in shape and size of Locks. Requires acceptance to let go.
For whom: those who want an organic and authentic result, and are comfortable with unpredictability.

What products and tools do you need to start?

Good news: starting your Locks does not require a mountain of products. On the contrary, excess products are often counterproductive. Here is the essential, without extras.

No need to invest in ten different products. The right tool, a light care adapted to your texture, and night protection: that's all you need to start on the right foot. The quality of the starting materials makes a real difference in the hold and health of your Locks in the long term.

Beginner mistakes to avoid

Knowing common pitfalls saves you months of frustration. Here are the most frequent ones.

Most starting problems do not come from lack of technique, but from excess impatience and handling.

How to know if Locks suit you?

This is a question often asked silently, out of fear of others' judgment or doubt about one's own texture. The answer is simple: Locks suit everyone. It is not a question of face shape or hair type, it is a question of desire.

Locks come in infinite variations: thin, thick, long, short, tied, free. They adapt to your personality, your lifestyle, and evolve with you. If the desire is there and you are ready to accompany the process with patience, you already have everything you need to start.

Conclusion

Starting your Locks is not about mastering a perfect technique on the first try. It is about choosing the right method for your texture, equipping yourself simply, and supporting the process regularly. With the right gestures from the start, you lay the foundation for healthy, durable, and truly your own Locks.

Take the time to start well. Your Locks will carry the care you give them today for a long time.